self evaluation 2
16 April -writing detailed descriptions for actual garment
Roundish shape from the canopy
Interfacing for curtains to give pleats
Half tied belt for not blocking waist lined wrinkles on the left side
Gatherings shapes using elastic band
Different size used thinner / broadened
Hoodie with detailed strings together
Two lines with tubings inside ( 0.5 cm each )
Inner facings for front openings ( 8 cm )
Seam allowances are 3 cm for the bottom to make it practical
have an asymmetrical patterns except back pattern
2 layers for bottom part with roundish shape inspired the canopy
Belt with 3 holes punched made with eyelets
Gatherings based on the three dimensional camouflaged sample
Related with maternity wear
- Fall wide when it comes to belly part
Three buttons from green man’s uniform cuffs
Modified elements of the trench coat which has British aspect
Material that could be used in practical use as tent canopy and uniform
Upper back has three layers
15 April ironing laser printed images to fabrics
As I continued my work, I felt I needed to develop some textiles samples. So I bought some special paper for making fashion printing on to the fabric with ironing from heating. But as I chose the waterproofed non- stretchable fabric, it was hard to print what I initially intended.It wasn't printed exactly the way I wanted it to. Judging from the nature of the material, it didn't seem to work well when compared to Cotton. I would like to take only a few good ones and use them as sample swatches .
Shoulders looked so big when I put it on the mannequin, but it looked fine when I put it on a model. I expected that Silhouette will be bulky but it looked fitted than I had expected.
considering back details
I put transparent 0.5mm tubings between fabrics .
As I calculated the pattern cutting shape , it was going to be three dimensional striping back design.
However, it was flat than I thought after I tried a bit. Then I have decided to put some thin tubings between seamed line which is 2 cm apart .
It was not that difficult to sew plastic tubings inside the fabric,
but as the plastic tubings were the material moves easily , sewing plastic tubings settled and folded fabrics at the same time took some time to finish the sample.
12 April , adding strings to the structure
Some of my friends who saw my work on the day of 9th April, they all said this metal structure sample must be used in some way as part of my final garment. But to me, the structure seemed not enough to be presented as it was. So I would like to add some strings that has blue and red line from Mccullouch & wallis . At first, I thought it was going on successfully. But I noticed overall looking became messy in some way. So I disconnected half of the strings on the metal without thinking. So problem came out again. As I made leftovers to be wrinkled, it looked even messy than before. A good and simple way of improving this sample did not came to my mind. Anyway, I brought this sample to the final photoshoot day, and it was not working well that I expected. It kept blocked my interesting parts from my final garment. Besides, placing it supposed to be on the top of the belly, as I made a coat, showing both garment and sample was not easy in a clear way.
So I concluded that this structure was enough only with some fabrics. The first tryout was much more successful because interpreting camouflage patterns to three dimensional way was not necessarily needed some strings.
choosing buttons sizes
3d experiments that went wrong directions
I have tried some roundish finishing shape for the front part. but it went through flat.
After asking some people to wear my coat,
I realized that collar positioned wrong way where it was under the hood.
I searched some hoodie coat in the Burberry website ( as they have a lot of transformed versions of trench coats) and one of the hoodie or collar was made of detachable. For example, snap buttons were mostly used.
Since the collar consisted of two layers, it was uneasy to tear it off.
And then I attached copper based snap buttons to the edge of the collar.
However, it easily choked the person's neck.
So next time, If I have to make this upper part again,
I am gonna make collar a bit more loose.
sleeve cuffs experiments
I played with my sample for a while to develop sleeve cuffs. It can be varied so many ways, but I missed this experiments to include actual makings.
6~7 April - camouflages developments which is unsuccessful
I tried to make a detail that is combined with transformed trench coat upper detail for front and
hollow cut camouflaged sample. However, after trying to put some samples to the half made coat, it
made coat even messy. so I stopped to developed this.
where should I place the belts came up the problem.
if i put it on the right of the middle it blocked the wrinkles that i intended to make.
- buttons for the front
- two buttons for the hood
- three buttons for the sleeve edges
trials for making thigh high boots (one paired only)
I thought it would be nice if I make a thigh high boots to match with my final coat. Based on my leg, I cut and put tubing horse inside the fabrics. And after fitting with my friend to be worn together at the same time, I realized it is not work what I would be expected, so tried to think about the other way to use this sample.
And this is how I used my thigh high one paired sample to the mannequin. I loved the way it goes out to left way like a camouflaged versions of what I have been doing in terms of maternity wear.
And I am thinking about using this belly part to be shown in my final line ups.
12 April actual making gloves go with the final garment
Since my garment have been nearly finished, I had to consider What kind of accessaries will be match with my garment. And I noticed all the green man was wearing gloves with their coat.
first step .
measuring my hand was based on making gloves. But it went wrong because the fully covering palm was not realized whenever I cut them.
Because I only tried myself while looking the gloves pattern on the internet, So I started to cut existed gloves for the dish washing to be modeled my gloves. But the problem came out its stretchable feature which is different from my non stretchable fabrics.
I was about to make paired gloves but changed my mind to make only one gloves. And especially gloves, it needed highly technical sewing skills when it comes to finger parts to be sewn.
10- 11 March (Actual making considerations)
How about Collar should be detachable?
Collar Placed wrong way
It went under the hood. It should be placed on the top of the hood.
Should be detached
- snap buttons (with using copper based snap buttons)
Checkered fabric on the magic pattern sheet (image with harrods pattern on the wall and floor )
Pattern 1st trials
Pattern 2 nd trials go to clear files
Ironing them should be required.
Put closer three buttons on the lefty sleeves .
Interfacing for curtains goes for the edge of the right sleeve. And place three buttons on them.
Bottom details for the back
Half rounded shape should be cut then sew to the bottom. Bottom details with cutting edges.
Gathering or putting elastic band inside for the back - shold be symmetry for the silhouettes.
Coat inner facings for the opening parts and neck line will be 8 cm each.
Gloves with Olive PUPA fabrics - basic pattern will be copied with gloves for dish washing.
Should be deconstructed with existed gloves - paired (2 pieces)
Get one from the charity shop
Black long thighed boots with tubings (responed by camouflaged patterns)
1 piece could be fine.
Connect big structure sample (which is about protrusioned camouflaged ver.) with cotton based fabric.
9 April to 17 deadline
9 March ( After peer critiques with Doris)
Drawings and collages in terms of my responses from initial research images are required. Loose papers should be organized in a clear way. I need to buy some boxes to place my samples in, and also the files or organizer should be considered in terms of presenting my works.
Thinking process and evidences for why I chosen these images must be written specifically.
Notes with design instructions must be given in my sketchbook.
4~7 April first trial of making pattern blolcks
I started to copy basic pattern from existed coats. Using calicos, outlined them with a chalk. And then trim the lines after finishing the copies.
Because my design will be mainly inspired by its curvy finishing lines from camouflages. I would wanted to try various versions of it. This image related to upper front blocks.
2nd week of April
2nd week , April
Evaluation questions by Selina, Anika and me
27 March - refined version of mood board
23 ~ 24 March
21 March metal workshop
I went to the metal workshop with Mei today.I I tried to make a shape inspired by steel helmet but the shape will goes to the belly to experiment with maternity wear.
Technician showed me how to use tools for making this sample.
And he also suggested me that this sample is big enough to put on the body
so I should check its size while putting this sample on the other person's body.
And I aslo made an object inspired by mixture shape of helmet and canopy from the Harrods.
I am thinking about going fabric shops and collecting some fabrics.
Then I will add some of them to this copper metal based sample on it to look like a camouflaged.
I exchaged a short introduction for my Harrods project with Anika who is from textiles 2. I was intrigued by her starting point which is about protection and terroirism based on her daily experience in britain so far.
Most of the students started with green men while the point I focused on the green women was interesting . And she really liked my design progress done by helmets, maternity wear and canopy form the harrods.
I thought the green canopy can be a representative surface objects when the customer first comes in to the shop.
And I was also inspired by the annotation that Anika have brought to her skecthbook. She even carried a survey about how people would like to feel safety according to what uniform when green men wearing. For example, Should be there a lot of lines in it? or Is uniform supposed to be a neat straight lined?
16 March Friday
I went to the MISAN TEXTILES to buy some fabrics to make a garment sample. I chose black and light pinked waxed fabrics to manipulate them with previous waterproofted green color.
I would like to make some patch work inspired by camouflaged helmet. But this time, I would like to make the surface challenged with other way. Because I only used
I tried another umbrella for 3d experiments today. And I put some small samples on the surface.
This time, it seems work well because I got a smaller umbrella which has more rounded shape. However, I think I should more consideration should be needed for the whole silhouette.
And below is the 3d experiments with a rack with a fabric.
The fabric I chose for this project is waterproof based so that can bring the relations between army wear and Harrods' canopy.
Before carrying this 3d tryouts, I didn't realized that I went off wrong directions before I had a tutorial with Helen. She told me that I should make a board which I can look all the time for referencing.
The above board is a collections of key imageries. This is a failure of not considering my previous research. So I decided to try another sleeve which is related to my key images.
sleeve experiments out of concepts (failure ver.)
Helen, my progress tutorial's tutor, saw my these pictures. She said, because a model wore vintage graphic printed t- shirt so this part of the sleeve does not fit to my Harrods projects. And then she suggested me to print my sketchbook partly to make a mood board that I can see whole images at a one time.
I colored some of the parts from the navy color based umbrella to link with the camouflage paintings. I always have been thought about umbrella will work for the similarity with canopy, but it seems not working really well. So I sewn back side of the parts to form a similar shape with the canopy. And I also wanted to finish the edge of the umbrella's fabric to bring more supportive force, Becuase it was colored with oil pastel, sewing machine didn't even go through very well.
I tried to make a sample which is similar with the Harrods's canopy shape.The reason why I would like to make this sample is that by trying this protrusion shape like a pregnant's women, I wanted to have some 3d experiments. I made four pieces and sewn together, but the problem was the shape I wanted to create did not go well than I thought.
Inner part of the sample.
I tried to put this sample on the tailored dummy, since I only have the idea of protrusion shape not a refined design, I was wondering for a while with this sample. Because I had no idea what to do with this. Therefore, I would like to draw and think about the whole silhouette, and then I wish I use this sample long before.
I am thinking about how I should effectively design helmet's protruding from and canopy shape of the harrods I've studied so far.
And I thought using wire would be too weak for making part of my design,
so went to second chance and bought a rack for hanging dish washes.
The reason why I chose this rack for my sample is it can show very well the connections between
canopy and frills.
I used the needle case and disposable plastic cup lid.
I noticed that using oil pastels seems not appropriate to describe in detail.But since it is a sample that responded to the war helmet after seeing it, I thought it would be okay to be expressed roughly.
I cut out the plastic disposable cup lid to look like fan shape, What was bothering me was that I could probably use both the surface, oil pastel colored on the front and the other reflected side on the back, although it was different.
the front side
I made some colored paper samples responded by secondary research. But I was uncertain which arrangement should be placed.
And I also had some problem which background fabric or paper should be placed. I don't think the background fabric is not working so I removed that. I tried to sew the cut- out paper samples together, but the surface was colored with oil pastel, so it didn't work very well. That's why I stapled them together instead.
I spent a lot of time for researching in CSM Library and Lcf library after having tutorial with Chris. I would like to start with the green women and their role between first world war. And I have decided to combine the olive colored canopy from the Harrods which is remarkable that shows up immediately after arriving at Harrot Department Store. In addition, I found some images related to women workers (1914 ~1918 because the green women only existed during this time) especially bus conductor or station staff whose works are related to service area.
And here are some key words underlying this research.
women and employment
first world war (1914 ~ 1918)
I went to Lcf library in oxford street to read some articles about the women and their working life during ww1.
And I found a book called 'Working for victory? Images of Women in the First world war, 1914-1918'. This book helped me think of the workwear diversities. This is a saying what I inspired most while looking through this book.
"The two World war uprooted and transplanted the women who took on war work. The truth was that many women showed themselves capable of undertaking many roles hitherto the sole prerogative of men, a position accepted during the emergency of war."
I went to the Imperial war museum to see uniforms that were used during world war I and world war II.
It was too bad to look at uniforms limited to men's soldiers. But those collections from that time enabled me to think which Colour pallette will work for this project.
The next day of visiting Imperial museum, I also went to Harrods department store to see what Harrods looks like. It was my first time to visit there, even though I have been Liberty or John lewis several times. There was distinctive difference between other shopping centre. To me, department store like Harrods seems has more historical aspects. I have noticed ceilings are decorated carefully. They are decorated with luxurious carvings and patterned walls. Besides, I saw two green men in front of the entrance, they looked busy with traffic jams in front of the Harrods entrance.
brainstorming after receiving Harrods project
Today , Paris (from fashion 2 ) became my partner to swap our sketch book and doing some responses based on her sketchbook . As she was developing a baby carriage, I thought this was the key design element from her sketchbook and started to draw and color them. And this simple mark making stuff really reminded me the camouflaged pattern.
Today, I had a tutorial with Chris and got some feedbacks from teammates.
He recommended me to broaden my subjects. What I showed them was tea pickers and dried tea samples on papers.
So here are some notes from today's class.
origin of teas - India, Japan and China
father's and mother's day ugly gift mug
daily afternoon ceremony old people in England
There are some people who drink tea more than water
Characters in times (as a tea history)
tea reading - fortune telling (leftovers)
I will try to combine some of those aspects and interpret them as my original perspectives.
roughly made personal project
personal project template
Today, I visited portobello road to have a look for vintage tea wares with Mei. The majority of shops sell furniture, but I found big sized woven circular tray from Africa in a shop. And I also bought kettle as well. And I am going to put acrylics on this woven tray and put on a body as a source of my silhouette sample.
We straighted to Old spitafields market but couln't find what we were looking for. Instead, we headed to vintage markets in Camden passage. I was pleased to find some antiquated tea wares and some of them were from hotels. The surface was worn by heat, which looks inspiring to me. And I also bought brooches as well and then put a brooch on a dried tea bag where I am going to use it for further developments.
I continued my research in the school library, as I looked through tea cups and ceramics , especially their obscure colors created by accident fascinated my eye. As I tried drying teabags before, so there is a common point between ceramics and teabags as far as concerned of colors. And I would liked to bring this mixture of colors in my project.
And then I visited alison Jaques gallery in soho to see an exhibition.
ROY OXLADE: WORK FROM THE 80S & 90S
It was worth visiting to see art pieces as his drawings have layered textures in his canvases which I am going to use it as well.
Today, I spent my time in the school library for continuing my research.
I read an explanatory article about history of the tea, and it helped me to gain design elements concerning of various aspects. For teabags, it was an accidental inventory item by a tea merchant, and I thought because the teabags are disposable after brewing a cup of tea, dust bags for vacuum cleaner is also suitable for my design samples. It is disposable and actually tea bags and dust bag look in similar way as a package material consisted of folded papers. And I ordered some different sizes and designs of paper dustbags and filters in a website called dustbaguk. After that I looked through a website West India Company which has a nice selections of tea set, and I found meshed bowl set and I thought wired meshed net can be bended or curved to look like that kind of bowl which I researched becuase my main design element is circular shape. For tomorrow, I will visit a West Indian company and will have look some nice tea related stuffs and would like to branch out my thinking process.
In the afternoon, I went to the katute 100 Japanese tea cafe.
I saw a variety of dried tea leaves were placed in tiny small bowls. And I have decided to draw observational drawings from now on. Fristly, Rather than drawing on papers without materials, I wanted to collage with tea stained paper. So I collected as many tea contained teabags as possible, and started to boiling water and then I poured water in different cups for infusing various kinds of teas.
Below are the lists that I have tried.
Rooibos, English-breakfast,milk Oolong tea, green tea, ginger tea, earl grey and fruit mixed tea
Among these, mixed with apple and blueberry tea was successful I think. Because the majority of tea have greenish color, but fruit tea had purple and light sky blue altogether so I really love the color itself made. This experiment was more spontaneous than intended, but it seemed that these eight types of tea alone found some element of fashion print.
Here's a summary of what I've done.
Wet with water, tear out grains from tea bag and dry it on thick paper so that it is stained.
My roommate found I was brewing some various teas with a lot of lables and curious about what I was doing. And after explaning to her my personal proposal, she told me if I research portuguese princess who merried with british prince and eventually introduced tea habit to the UK. So I read some articles related that time, and realized that if I look through 1660s customs or fashion in that period, it might be really helpful for finding some refined silhouette. Becuase whenever I research, what made me struggling most was refining silouette. I would like to make sure everything is clear from rough silhouette to tiny detail.
On my way to the gallery, I had happen to see a blue sticker sheet that protect the new windows and thought I should use it for my work.
I visited Kennington high street to see an exhibition called White Peak, Dark Peak done by Lewis Nobe in Thackeray gallery.
All paintings were abstract oil painting style paintings of natural scenery of Derbyshire. An abstract brush marks spreaded all over the canvas, seemed to be sufficient to refer to my project. Because I tried to use the tea growing field as one of my main starting image, so I can appreciate these works to get an Idea of how I can develop my observational drawings and responding to my tea growing secondary research imageries.
And then I moved to the Brocket gallery to see an Cat Roissetter's illustrations. All the sketches were really small about the size of an A4 paper, but this was the best exhibition with so many inspiration and ideas.
Because I was thinking to make sure to use the stained paper, her little yellowish sketches in the sketchbook which combined watercolor and charcoal well guided me how I can bring this kind of atmosphere to my sketchbooks. And the most impressive thing was the small but sparsely spaced trees (actually rather than a branch of trees) with the cold cement floor. This method of displaying sketches with wood would be suitable to the space when I should display outcome in the far future.
Visiting Royal Academy of Arts
Charles I King and Collector
Broken nose from Marble sculpture
Crated spots on the body sculture
Torso -> garment idea (what if I draw only top of the silhouette first)
Districted 2 parts background (when drawing portrait, what If I color background with multiple colors)
Diversitive angle for portrait
I saw many of the biggest size of paintings I met in my life, but I could see tiny brooches to be more interesting than grandeur pieces. I thought it would be good to connect with Tea accessory each other or try it out like a brooch.
While watching the exhibition, I was impressed to see the scarf flowing down old lady's bag strap in front of me.
Among many pieces, Albrecht Dürer and Hans Holbein amazed me how brilliant the detail of their drawing are.
Here and there : Paintings by LIsa Milroy
Today I went to the old steeet to visit a gallery called Victoria miro which has two separated exhibitions at the same time. Firstly , I saw some clothe collections reassembled in the first floor gallery. The quality of exhibition was not so good but some of the ideas that artist has taken was helpful for me to realize my ideas to works. The most impressive part was that by placing the blue dress on the pulley, the observer could see the clothes in the right place where they think feel comfortable. And she actually painted acrylic to the real clothes. And I thouht it would be nice if I bring her ideas on variations to same fabric design print by using different materials (silk, canvas, polyester or neoprene) .
Rather than straightly usig the shape of lamps in their way, seeing various sizes and layers of beautiful lamps that I could not think of would inspire me most.
And to me, this exhibition space, which is rough and only full of lamps, has become a special echo to me. I am not sure with this series of lamps is useful to my theme but I am certain that this kind of display which is hanging large lamps on the ceiling with thick ropes or placing them in the wooden dais.
Besides, having some time to think of objects that I never seen and never thought of in this way would be really helpful at some point when my project is progressed.
What fascinated me in this exhibition was actually the space was built with dark woods, and this atmosphere made me think of what I am trying to convey. Becuase I already decided tea related stufffs gonna be used at the very first beginning of my project, looking thorugh wooden made stuffs really helped me to come up with new ideas broadly.
a side b side gallery
Ellen Sampson WORN
This was my first time to see an exhibition limited to shoes. I was surprised by the way she presented worn shoes with detailed photographs of worn shoes. For example, the shoes’s skin heavily worn out by wearing. Her works of oberservation and thought deeply through an object( shoes ) gave me a deep inspiration. I thought It would be nice if I work with some series of collected objects related to tea ware. For instance, tea infusioner , tea whisk and powdered or dried petals of flowers and plants.
10 am -
First of all, I want to see a lot of works by different artists. So I visited serpentine gallery to see Lee Ufan's public sculpture in Kensington garden. simple combination of metallic glass and stone brought a heavy resonance on the way down to its museum. Unfortunately I can't explain it in detail yet, seems this sculpture well suited for my project titled with 'reconfiguring'.
But the problem is my personal project is still in vague and not firmly formed, therefore I cannot have inserting it on to the proposal.
I've moved my destination to the Barbican Center to see an exhibition called 'Yto Barrada'.Though it was a smaller exhibition than I thought, I was quite surprised by her beautiful work. Mobile-like installation on the ceiling was good, but what was more impressive was the symmetric but harmonious deformation of the chairs at the beginning. What was more refreshing is that the chairs were talking because art pieces were belong to multi media category. And small pieces of her collages were also good enough to show how I start my sketchbook for coming up with a project not yet shaped.
After finishing my hand in-, I had a brunch with my friend in cafe caravan. In there I had Oolong tea and I took a lot of photographes which are containing tea leaves in the pot or pouring down infused water.
And the tea served with two ceramics with small cup and kettle, and I thought it would be helpful to research ceramic tablewares espeically hand maden ceramics or artist who worked with ceramic.
Below are silhouette ideas that came up with in my mind randomly.
gestures grabbing in kettle.
Round table shape with tablecloth
People gathered around the table and having chatting each other
Beginning this own project..
After I had my personal project brief in archway, Mei and I straight went to the king's cross library for our research. There was usually an atmosphere of projects I wanted to do with, but there was no exact source of detail. I went to the fine art section on the third floor and looked for all of European artists. I grabbed everything I could and copied anyt pages I liked.
Artists below were helpful even if I did not insist on working on my project but as a source of learning to broaden my insights.
Robert Rauschenberg, Niki de saint Phalle, Cy tombly and Pipilotti Rist
Among them, Cy Tombly's subtle sculptures caught my eyes and made me want to use them for this project.
Before I came London, I was far from having teas in my life. But after six months, I found myself so many different kinds of teas piled up in my cupboard and I couldn’t continue my daily routine without a cup of tea for a day.So I intrigued by many tea stuffs and started to look at them deeply.